By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
There is something about cherry tomatoes that tomato lovers find irresistible.
Perfectly portioned for one juicy bite, they’re an adorable fruit. They’re also so sweet and intensely flavored that they make a great afternoon snack when plucked off the vine, still warm from the sun. Even our dog Harry couldn’t resist the tiny tomato’s charms, eating whatever Sun Golds he could reach as they ripened in planters on my patio.
While they often end up in salads, cherry tomatoes also work wonderfully in simple pan sauces because their thin skin allows them to cook down quickly in the oven or on the stovetop. Got 20 minutes, some garlic and olive oil and a heavy saute pan? In about the time it takes to cook and drain a pot of pasta, you’ve got dinner.
This dish was certainly a breeze on a warm summer evening. The tomatoes are tossed directly into a pan along with slivered garlic, extra virgin olive oil and anchovies without any prep (other than a quick rinse under cool water). As they burst and break down, they create a bright and tomato-forward sauce that’s full of umami flavor.
What really sets it apart, though, is the crunchy, gremolata-like panko topping. Fried capers and anchovies add a salty kick, and there’s also the tiniest hint of lemon. Unless you’re a cheese fanatic, you won’t miss the grated Parmesan you usually find on top of pasta.
The original recipe calls for penne, a traditional pairing for chunkier tomato sauces. But to me, it felt like a bucatini kind of night.
Any color of cherry tomato will work in the dish; just be sure they are vibrant, uniform in size and firm to the touch. For a spicier dish, add more red pepper flakes.
Bucatini with burst cherry tomatoes
For topping
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and patted dry
1 anchovy fillet, rinsed, patted dry and minced
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
Pinch sea salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
For pasta
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry
2 pounds cherry tomatoes
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, plus more for pasta water
Large pinch red pepper flakes
12 ounce bucatini, or other favorite pasta
1 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
Prepare topping: Heat oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add capers and anchovies and cook, stirring frequently, until capers have darkened and shrunk, 3-4 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon or fork, transfer caper mixture to paper towel-lined plate, and set aside. Leave oil in pan and return skillet to medium heat.
Add panko, salt and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until panko is golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Transfer panko to medium bowl and stir in parsley, lemon zest and reserved caper mixture.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts of water to boil in a large pot of salted water. While coming to a boil, heat 1/4 cup oil, garlic and anchovies in large saucepan over medium heat.
Cook, stirring occasionally, until anchovies break down and garlic is lightly browned, 4-5 minutes. Add tomatoes, salt, sugar and pepper flakes to saucepan and stir to combine. Cover and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, without stirring, for 10 minutes.
When water is boiling, add pasta. Cook, stirring often, until al dente (bucatini takes about 12 minutes). Reserve 1/2 cup cooking water, then drain pasta.
Off heat, add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to tomato sauce, and stir gently until it forms a light sauce. Add drained pasta and toss to coat.
Adjust consistency of sauce with reserved cooking water as needed (I added about 1/4 cup).
Stir in basil and season to taste with salt.
Serve, passing panko topping separately.
Serves 4.
— adapted from “More Mediterranean: 225+ New Plant-Forward Recipes” by America’s Test Kitchen
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