By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
Do you love hot and spicy food? Long for a dish that sets your mouth on fire?
Me, too. That’s why, whenever I decide to try my hand at making Chinese food, I always reach for recipes that hang their hat on the crunchy, spicy condiment known as chili crisp.
And when I’m in the mood for something really exhilarating? That calls for a dish that features Sichuan peppercorns and those tiny dried red chiles you just know are going to make you break out in a sweat.
If you’re unfamiliar, Sichuan peppercorns are the small, reddish-pink berries that often put the fire into Sichuan cuisine, which is known for its bold and spicy flavors. Sometimes ground into a powdery spice or used to infuse oil with a zesty kick, the husky peppercorns induce an intense tingling sensation on the lips and tongue that you’ll think will overstay its welcome. But after a couple of swallows, they actually leave behind woodsy, citrusy notes.
The numbing sensation is due to a compound called hydroxy-alpha-sanshool that causes a biting astringency on your mouth’s “touch” receptors. When combined with chiles or spices like star anise, garlic and ginger, it’s known as mala — a numbing sensation combined with a spicy flavor.
This Cook’s Illustrated recipe for Chongqing chicken, a traditional, spicy dish of chicken and dried red chiles, is as dramatic as it is mouthwatering.
The first thing you notice is the rather intimidating amount of dried chiles that give the stir-fry its amazing presentation. (No worries: You aren’t expected to eat that sea of red but rather dig through it with your chopsticks on your way to the tender, battered chicken.)
Second is the dish’s intoxicating aroma. Along with toasted Sichuan peppercorns and all those fragrant chiles, the stir-fry includes the Chinese version of the “holy trinity” in Cajun and Creole cooking — ginger, garlic and scallions.
The recipe might seem like a lot of work because the list of ingredients is on the long side, and you have to fry the battered chicken twice so that every piece browns deeply. But in the end, it really doesn’t take all that long and who doesn’t like a one-pan dish?
In China, the dish is often made with chicken on the bone and fried naked, but here it’s crafted with boneless, skinless chicken thigh cut into bite-sized pieces that’s been dipped in a cornstarch-based batter. In a pinch, you could forgo the crispy coating and simply sear the chicken with a few tablespoons of oil in a really hot wok until every piece is browned and crisp on all sides.
Despite it’s fiery looks, the dish is not all that intense on the palate. But it probably helps to have a bowl of steamed white rice at the ready just in case.
You can find Sichuan peppercorns, chili flakes and dried Sichuan chiles in any Asian market.
Chongqing Chicken
PG tested
Steamed jasmine rice is traditionally served with this dish. In fact, some would say it’s essential because it helps soak up the numbing flavor of the Sichuan peppercorns. To round it out with vegetables, add some garlicky broccoli or bok choy on the side.
For batter
2/3 cup cornstarch
1/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 cup water
For chicken
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thigh, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine
Peanut or vegetable oil for frying
1/4 cup Sichuan chili flakes
1 1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate, optional
6 garlic cloves, minces
4 scallions, chopped
1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced into thin matchsticks
4 ounces small dried Sichuan chiles
2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Make batter: Whisk cornstarch, flour and baking powder together in a bowl. Whisk in water until smooth, then refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, toss chicken, soy sauce and wine in second bowl, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Set second wire rack in second sheet and line with paper towels.
Add oil to a large Dutch oven until it measures 1 1/2 inches deep and heat over medium heat to 400 degrees.
Whisk batter to recombine. Add chicken and toss to coat.
Using hands, remove half of chicken from batter and place in single layer on unlined rack. Let rest for 1 minute to allow excess batter to drip off.
Working quickly, use spider skimmer or slotted spoon to lower chicken pieces into hot oil. Using tongs or cooking chopsticks, separate pieces so they fry separately. (Be careful not to splash hot oil!)
Fry chicken until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Adjust burner, if necessary, to maintain oil temperature between 375 and 400 degrees.
Using spider skimmer, transfer chicken to paper towel-lined rack. Return oil to 400 degrees and repeat with remaining chicken, then transfer to rack.
Return oil to 400 degrees over medium-high heat. Working in 2 batches, fry chicken a second time until deep golden brown and crisp, 2-4 minutes. Return chicken to rack lined with fresh paper towels.
Whisk chili flakes, sugar, salt and MSG, if using, in a small bowl. Measure out 1/4 cup frying oil and set aside. (Discard remaining oil or save for another use.)
Heat an empty 14-inch flat-bottom wok over medium-high heat until just beginning to smoke. Reduce heat to medium-low, drizzle reserved oil around perimeter of wok and heat until just smoking.
Add garlic, scallions and ginger and cook, tossing constantly, until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Add chiles and peppercorns and cook, tossing constantly, until just toasted, about 1 minutes.
Add chicken and sprinkle spice mix evenly over top. Cook, tossing constantly, until chicken is well coated, about 1 minute.
Off heat, add cilantro and toss gently to incorporate. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.
Serves 4-6.
— Cook’s Illustrated
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