By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
It may not exactly be soup weather yet, but as we march into October, you know the brisk weather that mandates pulling on a sweatshirt will soon be upon us.
The enticing aroma of burgers sizzling on a grill is starting to be replaced by the smell of a backyard fire pit, and it’s hard to walk two blocks without seeing Halloween decorations.
The scene is a little different at your local farmers market or grocery produce section, too. Bins that just a few weeks ago overflowed with sweet corn, peaches and local tomatoes now hold pumpkins, root vegetables like beets and rutabaga, kale and other hearty greens and a host of winter squash.
A perennial favorite is butternut squash, a peanut-shaped winter squash with yellow-tan skin and sweet, nutty orange flesh.
Often roasted as a side dish because it’s so easy to peel, slice and cook — all you need to make it shine is a sprinkle of salt and drizzle of olive oil — butternut also makes the great base for a creamy and super-nutritious, seasonal soup.
This recipe from Tara Punone’s upcoming cookbook, “Vegana Italiana” (Rodale Books, $32.50) is a great option for vegetarians, vegans and people who follow a dairy-free diet. Chock-full of veggies, it also is suitable for those trying to get more plant-based meals into their weekly rotation.
It starts with an aromatic, mirepoix-like mix of onion, carrots and celery sauteed in olive oil. The fragrant broth that cooks the veggies after chunks of squash are added also includes garlic, ginger and coconut milk, which adds a lovely creaminess and subtle coconut flavor.
The original recipe includes a teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg, but I wasn’t quite ready to commit to Thanksgiving flavors. So I flavored the soup instead with curry powder and a pinch of red pepper. I also decreased the amount of coconut milk from three cans to two to make it a little less fattening.
It’s easy to puree the soup right in the pot using an immersion blender. If you choose to instead liquefy it in a blender, be sure to let the soup cool for a few minutes in the blender jar before hitting the on button, and work in small batches. Also, make sure to cover the top of the blender with a clean dish towel to prevent messy splatters.
When purchasing, choose a heavy butternut squash with smooth, unblemished skin and a dry, intact stem. Don’t worry when it comes time to peel it — unlike other thick-skinned winter squashes like Blue Hubbard or kabocha, butternut squash is blessed with a thin and delicate skin that easily comes off with a good vegetable peeler.
With some thick pieces of buttered toast or a grilled cheese sandwich, this soup makes a filling mid-week meal. In small portions, it’s also a lovely appetizer.
Butternut Squash Bisque
PG tested
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3 cups diced onion (about 1 large)
3 cups diced carrots (about 5 large)
3 cups diced celery (about 3 stalks)
1/4 cup peeled and diced fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
8 cups peeled and cubed butternut squash
2 15-ounce cans coconut milk
1 cup water
2 tablespoons maple syrup
Zest 1 orange (about 2 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Dash of cinnamon
Generous sprinkle of nutmeg
1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste
Thinly sliced green onion, for garnish
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
2 tablespoons toasted pepitas, optional
In a large stockpot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic and ginger, and saute for 10 minutes.
Add butternut squash and coconut milk to the pot and stir.
Cover the pot and bring soup to a boil over medium-high heat. Decrease heat to medium-low.
Keep the pot covered and simmer the soup, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until squash is fork-tender.
Stir in water, maple syrup, orange zest, salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and curry powder.
Use an immersion blender to blend until the soup has a smooth, creamy consistency. It should not be porridge-like — add more water if it is too thick.
Garnish with green onions, parsley, pepitas and a drizzle of olive oil.
Serves 8.
— adapted from “Vegana Italiana: Traditional Italian the Plant-Based Way” by Tara Punzone with Gene Stone
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