Too fast (fashion). Too furious.
Chinese online fast-fashion retailer Shein is opening its first physical store in Paris on Nov. 1 — but French fashionistas are fuming about the impending arrival that is far from très chic.
The store is set to occupy the sixth floor of the iconic BHV Marais department store, which France 24 dubbed “one of the temples of Parisian shopping.”
As a mainstay of the neighborhood for nearly 170 years with views of the Eiffel Tower, the decision to allow the much-maligned brand to set up shop is being seen as a betrayal — enough so to get BHV kicked out of France’s industry body for department stores.
And it’s not just super-stylist shoppers who are appalled. Politicians are also peeved about the brick-and-mortar opening.
“Paris denounces the establishment of Shein, a symbol of fast fashion, at BHV Marais,” Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo declared on LinkedIn.
Last week, employees at BHV Marais left their cash registers for a few hours and gathered outside to protest the opening.
According to Reuters, workers were waving labor union flags outside the department store at 3:30 p.m. local time, and union representatives and city hall officials made speeches.
An employee named Valerie told France 24, “There’s real history in this store. Just two years ago BHV was fully committed to our go-for-good policies, promoting that were French, made in France or at least artisanal.”
French protesters denounced what they said was the implementation of a low-cost Chinese competitor that uses cheap labor and violated environmental and human rights standards.
“Shein goes against our beliefs,” one employee told the New York Times. “We have always been a beautiful store with beautiful brands, and we try to promote corporate social responsibility.”
A Change.org petition asking Shein to be blocked from opening at BHV Marais gained over 105,000 signatures.
Several brands also announced they would pull their products from the department store in opposition. The Aime and Talm organic skin care lines, Culture Vintage and Le Slip Francais, a lingerie brand, are among those saying they’ll leave the department store.
“Our collective choices are building the future of our industry,” Mathilde Lacombe, the president of Aime, said on LinkedIn. “Who is joining us?”
Fashion editor Dana Thomas explained to France 24 that there’s several reason for this kind of uproar, noting that Shein is one of the leading forces in ultra-fast fashion and comparing it to ultra-processed food.
“It’s the junk food of fast fashion,” Thomas said.
Shein’s move to open a brick-and-mortar store comes after France passed a law to charge 10 euros per garment purchased online, so opening a physical location helps the company get around that extra cost.
France’s antitrust watchdog also fined Shein 40 million euros to “unfair commercial practices” in July after a yearlong investigation into its misleading advertising discounts.
According to Bloomberg, Shein plans to expand in five other French cities, including Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers and Limoges.
Shein’s executive chairman Donald Tang defended the physical boutique, saying that the retailer is “honoring” France as a fashion capital, Times of India reported.
“By choosing France as the place to trial physical retail, we are honoring its position as a key fashion capital and embracing its spirit of creativity and excellence,” Tang said in a statement.
The fast fashion retailer told WWD that the “alliance is more than just a launch — it’s a commitment to revitalize city centers across France, restore department stores, and develop opportunities for French ready-to-wear.”
