Every year as the weather takes a turn, I head up to Harlem to buy an annual winter coat from Trintage, a small vintage store on Malcolm X and 119th. Afterward, I treat myself to a warm, comforting meal. When I saw I’d only be two blocks from The Good Good, I knew just where I’d be going.
The Good Good had been on my radar ever since a friend told me they have his favorite fried chicken in Harlem, a bold statement to say the least. The small eatery flew even higher up my New York restaurant bucket list after dining at The Edge in early 2024, a restaurant owned by sisters Justine and Juliet Masters, who co-own The Good Good with Lesly Bernard.
I strutted down 119th in my new oversized fur coat on a chilly Friday night and finally made my way into the cozy restaurant. Upon first glance, the restaurant appears to have more of a cocktail bar feel. The lights are dim with a moody orange hue and the decor inside is immaculate and tasteful. I wanted to slide into a booth and stay a while, so I did and ordered a cocktail.
I opted for a negroni made with Ten to One Rum, Amaro Montenegro, and Lillet Blanc. The drink wound up being such a smash hit for me that it has since become my go-to winter cocktail; I promptly purchased a bottle of Amaro Montenegro after my visit. It’s good to know that if I find myself back in the area on another chilly night, drinks are served until midnight.
Incredible cocktails aside, I came with a roaring appetite. While I knew I’d be ordering the fried chicken, I was excited at the prospect of the menu being split into “earth,” “surf,” and “turf,” with earth being veggie-forward (minus the addition of bacon in one dish), surf being seafood-forward, and turf being meat-forward.
Since cocktails and fried chicken were inevitable, I thought I could balance it all with some veggies from the “earth” portion of the menu. I ordered the candied yams, the sautéed seasonal greens and the jerk mushrooms for some spice.
The veggies came out fairly quickly, and with the three I ordered, the portions would have been enough for a complete meal. The yams were cut into thick, steak-like circles and topped with pickled shallots. My first bite led me to a crunchy, sweet, caramelized exterior, followed by a tender interior. The yams are roasted, then tossed in potato starch and fried. Immediately after they’re fried, they are tossed in honey and topped with a peri peri drizzle, pickled Fresno chiles, pickled shallots and herbs. The preparation gives the yams a crunch that could rival fried chicken.
The other standout was the jerk mushroom dish. Like many people, as much as I love fungi, I can get quickly weirded out by the texture, so ordering an entire plate of them is not something I’d usually do, unless as a side at a steakhouse. Texture wasn’t an issue at The Good Good, though. They really don’t shy away from the jerk factor here, and the spice is balanced by the addition of sweetened coconut. Despite coming to eat fried meat, I found The Good Good to be a great option for plant-based diners.
Before my beloved fried chicken arrived, it was time for another cocktail. This time, I opted for a raspberry lemon drop, made with Barr Hill gin, muddled raspberries, creme de framboise, and lemon juice. Just like I’m a sucker for an aesthetically pleasing colorful coat, I am equally a sucker for a pretty pink cocktail, especially if it’s just the right balance of tart and sweet like this one was.
As I sipped cocktail number two on my annual “treat yourself” day, my fried chicken, which can be found on the menu as Hot Honey Fried, arrived.
Do you know how you sometimes will know a dish is going to be good just by looking at it? I might have cried a little happy tear when I saw the glisten of the chicken, thanks to its hot honey glaze. Having eaten at many of the fried chicken mainstays of Harlem, I have to say I agree with my friend: The Good Good’s fried chicken is my personal favorite in the neighborhood. The kick from the hot honey, which can be attributed to fatalii, a chili from Central Africa, paired with the incredibly crispy breading makes for a seriously great bite.
While I’d 100% recommend the fried chicken, what surprised me most about The Good Good were their veggie dishes, especially those roasted yams. Safe to say, whether it’s a cocktail, a vegetable dish, or some fried chicken, whatever you order here is going to be good good (sorry, I couldn’t resist).
- Address: 1694 Park Ave, New York, NY 10035
- Phone: (917) 409-0103
- Hours: Monday-Thursday 5 p.m.-12 a.m.; Friday: 5 p.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-12 a.m.
- Prices: Earth: $10-$22; Surf: $15-$29; Turf: $26-$48
- Takeout available, no delivery; reservations via Resy.
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