It’s not every day someone hands me an empty clam shell and tells me to scoop raw meat right off the bone with it, but Saito is not your everyday Japanese restaurant.
New York is fortunate to have a variety of Japanese restaurants that can really hold their own, with 19 having at least one Michelin star, and one (Masa) even holding the restaurant guide’s elusive three-star rating. Speaking of Michelin stars, the small Nolita izakaya subject to today’s review, is owned by chef Daisuke Nakazawa of one Michelin-star Sushi Nakazawa.
While Saito might not have a Michelin star — at least not yet — they do have, in my humble opinion, one of the best Japanese menus in the city. Japanese cuisine shines in its simplicity and freshness, and Saito has a no-frills approach to highlighting ingredients as they are while keeping the atmosphere playful and unpretentious.
That brings me right to the bluefin tuna rib, or bluefin tuna nakaochi. As the name suggests, this dish is quite literally a tuna rib, bone and all. It is served raw, alongside an empty clam shell and some nori sheets as utensils for eating this unique take on Japanese tuna. I brought a friend with me to split the delicate piece of fish, and we got some accompaniments to match.
We started with the grilled shishito peppers. In addition to the bluefin tuna nakaochi, we ordered two taco style handrolls — one tuna and one amberjack — and a sashimi assortment for two. At the very last minute, we added the Washu beef steak.
The shishito peppers were easy to snack on with a nice hit of salt thanks to both the crystalized soy sauce and dried bonito flakes. The taco style hand rolls are perfectly fine, and I had a fond appreciation for the crispness of the nori sheets that served as the “taco shell.” That said, if you’re going to order sashimi and the bluefin tuna nakaochi, I would say they’re not entirely necessary.
As for the tuna rib, it’s fairly priced at $32. It truly looks massive on the plate — the bone is quite tall and gives the nakaochi a dramatic height. It’s one of the most show-stopping dishes I’ve seen in quite some time, and what I love about that is it’s not trying to be anything more than what it is: raw tuna on a rib. But with its naturally bright pink meat and exposed bone contrasting with the black plate, this dish is bound to turn every head in the restaurant when it comes out.
You’re given a clam shell to scoop the tuna meat right off the bone. I am a big fan of playing with my food, so I was giddy like a schoolgirl at this prospect. As I scooped, I was surprised to see the meat does not go as deep as the rib’s massive sie would have you think; it’s actually quite a thin piece of tuna. I tried the first bite without any soy sauce or nori. The meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender, perhaps because it’s so close to the bone. The taste is mild and delicate. With the addition of nori and just a small hit of soy and wasabi, I could’ve popped a good amount of them in my mouth, like potato chips or popcorn, no problem.
Washu (or Washugyu) is a cut of beef that comes from cattle that have never been treated with growth hormones. I’ve admitted over here at NYC Hidden Dining Gems that I really don’t get the hype around steak. I seldom order it and would choose a burger or even a slice of pizza over a steak any day. I can now confidently say that’s because I’ve never had Washu before.
While I came for the tuna rib, the Washugyu was my favorite bite as Saito by a long shot. It’s so perfectly tender, with edges scored in a way that really allowed all of that marbled fat to render, creating a bite that can best be described as caramelized, buttery meat. The menu reads “market price,” but ours only came to $38. To get a steak that tender for such a good deal, especially when I’ve paid more for a burger in New York, ensure I’ll be coming back to Saito again and again.
My final verdict on Saito is that while the tuna rib is what got me through the door, the Washugyu is what will keep me coming back.
- Address: 72 Kenmare St, New York, NY 10012
- Phone: (646) 590-2969
- Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Closed Sundays & Mondays
- Prices: Appetizers: $6-$13; Crispy Rice: $10-$18; Sashimi: $9-$32; Taco Style Hand Roll: $6-$20; From the land: $23-MP; From the Ocean: $18-$32; Rice & Noodle: $18-$35; Dessert: $6
- No takeout, no delivery; reservations accepted.
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