We have officially entered “fake spring.” The weather is warming, but seasoned New Yorkers know we are bound to get hit with a few 30 degree-ers before spring is in full swing. If you need a place to grab a bite when those inevitable cold days sneak back up on us, Takumen, an izakaya in Long Island City, Queens, ought to do the trick.
Takumen has been my go-to ramen spot for years, my consistent turn-that-frown-upside-down meal. While studying vigorously for law school exams, the spicy goma-miso ramen from Takumen was my saved DoorDash takeout order. I visually remember seeing splatters of deep-hued miso broth on stacks of papers from contract law while slurping. For years, I had only ever ordered in from Takumen, but recently, on one of those fake-spring cold days, I finally took the time to enjoy a meal at the restaurant counter (note that they do have proper tables, too).
Established in 2016, Takumen is much more than just a ramen spot. Their menu has a nice selection of appetizers, like fried tako (a play on takoyaki, made with fried octopus, crispy potatoes and cilantro), two types of edamame (dashi, which is served hot with sesame, or cold shisho) and various chicken dishes, like karaage-chicken (fried chicken), tsukune skewers (chicken meatball skewers) and chicken wings in flavors like miso, Thai curry or soy garlic.
That first in-person visit to Takumen was also my first venture outside of my usual ramen order, and I opted for some obanzai, or “small appetizers,” like the yukari-cucumber, Takumen potato salad (made with chickpeas, cucumbers, carrots and kewpie mayo) and kombu cauliflower and broccoli pop.
The yukari-cucumber is a refreshing, necessary component, especially if you plan to go heavy with ramen, fried chicken, or one of their rice bowls with toppings like beef dry curry and unagi (eel). Thick cut cucumbers are speckled with yukari salt, which is made up of red shiso leaves and has hints of herbs like basil and mint and a subtle cinnamon-like taste. The potato salad is extra creamy and starchy. Out of the three, the kombu cauliflower and broccoli pop was the least memorable, and I found myself craving more cukes than anything else.
Takumen offers six different types of ramen, and I’ve tried three of them: the tan-men veggie lovers with cabbage, chives, sprouts and zucchini; the wantan-men with shrimp and pork dumplings, broccoli rabe and thin noodles; and my personal repeat order, the spicy goma-miso. The latter has a rich umami punch, likely attributable to the use of roasted black sesame, white sesame and spicy miso, creating levels of flavor that hit all of the senses at once. It is deeply satisfying. There are bits of ground pork mixed throughout and one large slab of chashu pork, or pork belly. The thinly sliced scallions throughout add a nice zing to the savory broth, and the thick noodles are perfectly chewy.
At $21, the portion is always large enough that I have ample leftovers, and I never find it a bad idea to add a $3 ajitama, or Japanese jammy hard-boiled egg in a sweet soy marinade.
Takumen isn’t just ideal for “fake spring,” but a solid choice for a real spring day, too. They have a walk-up window for coffee drinks, a matcha bar, and a dedicated “taku parlor,” where they offer mochi and soft serve in flavors like matcha, vanilla and chocolate. If you’re pining to try something different for dessert, go for anmitsu, a Japanese confection made up of cubed gelatin and different toppings.
Safe to say, whatever season we’re in, from anmitsu to thick, chewy noodles swimming in bowls of spicy, fragrant broths, Takumen’s got you covered.
- Address: 5-50 50th Ave, Long Island City, NY 11101
- Phone: (718) 361-7973
- Hours: Monday-Sunday 11:30 a.m.-3:45 p.m. and 5:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
- Prices: Obanzai $7.50 each, Assorted three $21.50, Assorted Four $28; Appetizers $7-$16; Salads $17-$18; Wings $16; Special $24-$35; Rice Bowl $21-$29.50; Ramen Noodle $12-$21; Soft Serve $7.50; Anmitsu $14; Ice Cream Float $10; Mochi $3/piece
- Takeout and delivery available; Reservations via Resy.
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